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E?  2? ?  ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? ??? ?? ??????????????? ?? s?{?y?}?}?~??????? ?????@??D`??3 ????30??DP??30??~??30??D`??w3 ??w??os? ?????p???????????????????????? ????????????? `??1????????????????????????????? ????????? ??? ??? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ? ??? ?? ??? ?? ? ? |? 8?????????????????????????????????????????????????  CL@x   !"        .?_????????????????@ 0D2 ?3 L3D3`` 2?D?0H???? ????n>  nn?? @C^1@ A @Coo@ A @Cpp!@Dynos A @CpYpq@Dynos A @Cp@p@This basically involves a LEAP for a hold which is out of reach. Create momentum by using the power in your legs and extra push from your hands to launch. The principle of precisely placing your hands still exist...you just have to do it better and faster! Remember these can be dangerous...get someone to spot you and don't hurt your fingers by jumping to too small a hold. A @Cqt$@Dead Points A @Ct9ta&@Dead Points A @Ct@t@@This is similar to dynos except your feet usually don't leave the ground, i.e the holds you are tying to reach are slightly closer. Again, be precise. A @A`@ۭCtvYv9&@The Egyptian A @Cvv@The Egyptian This is a combination of forward-facing and rockovers. It is especially useful when bouldering, but can be adapted to use on vertical problems by using the leading leg to advance up a foot-hold. A @A4@ۭCvxx|@p !$ވE"D#ވE"D#ވE"D# @ɈE "b#"2"Dn|GwD#2FD@ȉE"bfb2"DfFDVTD#s<@ E "#*"b" DE\DD# ވE"D#ވE"#32"?"D]DD#7w`E"32"#"D]DGD#wvE"32"/"D]DODF#wE"3"/"*"D]DODLd#w E"3"#3"#D]D]D#w@7w~E"3"32".bD]D]DLd#wvwv E"32"32"&bD]D]DG#w@7wvE"32"32"'D]D]DLD#w@7wv E"32"32"*"DD]Df#wvwvE"3"#32" DD# wv  E "32"c"D]D\D#wvwv E"#3232"bDEDd#wvwt E"#3232"DED#wvwvwpE"#323#3"/DEDLewvwv! 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Utilise the momentum from each move to lead you into the next. This helps to conserve energy. The disadvantage of this style is it can be less precise compared to a completely static approach. A @C"@Bouldering A @C!I$@Bouldering A @C@v@This is basically climbing on a smaller scale. lt allows for shorter, more intense moves and sequences and is great training. Create problems to improve power, endurance, balance and your weaknesses. Remember it doesn't have to be steep...but steep bouldering is the quickest way to increase your strength. A @CY@ A @C@LESSON 3 A @C @LESSON 3 A @C1@Q0@Types of Climbing A @C2@Types of Climbing A @AD@ۭCI)F@Slab Climbing: the face is less than vertical. Generally the holds are smaller and balance more than brute force is the key. Remember to keep your weight over your feet, smear, and make small moves upwards. 'Palming' of the wall means you may not even need hand holds! Face/Vertical Climbing: here the wall is vey close to vertical. Hand and foot holds can vary from large jugs to smalI crimpers. Again, keep your weight over your feet. Don't forget techniques such as high steps, rest positions and Iaybacking, all of which are useful in reserving energy and moving up the wall. Overhangs: No need to defne these! Overhangs can be daunting because of the need for more strength, but don't let this stop you. Remember the basic techniques - breath, relax and rest were you can. Keep moving to make your energy last longer and don't forget the drop knee and heel hook. Climbing Up Foot Work The same basic foot positions apply here as in bouldering. Use the power in your legs to PUSH you up the wall. Don't drag yourself up with your arms - you WlLL tire quickIy. The high step and rockover move, where you place your foot on a hold high on the wall and then pull your weight over it, is particularly useful in keeping your weight over your feet and gaining height at the same time. Handwork Remember to keep your grip light and arms straight as much as possible. Arms are mainly used for body positioning and balance. To keep your arms straight, twist your body into a layback or drop knee position or sink down onto bent legs in the 'froggie' position. Rests It is is a useful but under used climbing technique. Gaining even a slight rest can make the difference between completing the cIimb or not. Use rockovers or stems or just lean your body against the wall. lf possible, jam part of the body - arm, knee, shoulder - against part of the climb to take the weight off your hands. One Arm Climbing This is a great way to improve balance and focus on footwork. Concentrate on pulling your body around with your toes and Iegs. Downclimbing Try to climb back down the cIimb once you get to the top. This forces you to concentrate on balance, body position and technique. All the moves are different. Down climbing is an excellent way of increasing endurance...you climb further and on the way down you find new rest positions because you are more tired. Try climbing up and down an easy climb until failure...rest on the ground, then do it again. A @$A ,@ۭC:@You will notice greater improvement if you focus on the volume of climbing instead of the diffculty. The more climbs you do in a session the better! A @C)i@ A @C@LESSON 4 A @C @LESSON 4 A @CAa(@Route Reading A @C,@ Route Reading A @C)@ Every time you step up to a new climb take a moment to have a good look at it BEFORE you leave the ground. Try and work out what sort of HOLDS are on the climb and the best way of using them...this becomes easy in the gym as there are a limited number of different Shapes. Next ty and work out where the hard bit is, i.e. where is the CRUX. This is usually the part of the climb with the smallest holds or blankest section. If you can, think of the best moves to use at the crux and REMEMBER them...this saves your energy as when you get up there YOU don't have to think, only climb! Route reading is partly instinct and partly experience. The more climbing You have done, the more sequences and moves you have to choose from. Before you leave the ground BREATHE - take a few deep breaths to load your muscles with oxygen. This also helps you to relax and (hopefully) reminds you to keep breathing the whole way up. VISUALISE SUCCESS - imagine the moves you are going to do to get you to the top. Remember, a positive attitude is just as important as technique and strength. A @$AH ۭCa *@ On the route: A @CIy,@ On the route: A @C@Remember the basics; hands relaxed, arms straight, heels down, breathe, three points of contact and climb smoothly. The more climbing you do, the more natural these become and you have more time and energy to focus on the climb ahead. A @C&@ HAVE FUN!! A @C9a6@ Where to from here? A @CÙ8@ Where to from here? A @C A\@Remember that climbing doesn't stop at top-roping and bouldering in the Gym. LEAD CLIMBJNG is the 'next frontier'. It feels less restricted than top-roping as the rope is usually below your waist. lt also allows for 'ground-up' ascents because you don't have to go up the top to set up the rope first. OUTDOOR CLIMBING - If possible try to get some experience climbing outside. This type of climbing invariabley takes you to some amazing spots. lt is more challenging than indoor climbing and demands good technique and a positive, safe approach. A @Cy@ A @C!J@The 1O week climbing programme A @CYɩf@ TRAINING - The 1O week climbing programme A @$A$@ۭCiI@4 weeks: STAMINA - Lots of climbing easier grades 2,3 or 4 times a week Maybe, spend one session working routes or bouldering. Otherwise, up/down climb, approx. 5-6 times to failure, Rest for 15mins and then do it again! Repeat this 2 or 3 more times in the session. 3 weeks: POWER-ENDURANCE Climb consistent routes, e.g. evey move in a climb is grade 16, rather than one grade 16 move in the whole climb. If you're not sure which are good routes ask our staff. 2 weeks: POWER - Hard climbs/bouldering. MAX 2 nights per week. 1 week: REST Start all over again for another 1O weeks! 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